Can you build a wooden chalet over water in France without needing planning permission?

no, not even in your own garden you will be permitted to constreuct anything bigger than a doghaus without a permission.
We are talking about a country that has been practicing law with vigor for at least a many centuries and who love to discuss everything for days on end.

answer : NO

whatever is the construction, you will need of a permit to construct ... even on water

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